Wednesday, June 25, 2014

2014 PRAGUE: Day 4 Old Town Part II

June 28

We walked around the Square to catch another Tram across the river to the National Theatre.
The separate entrance to St. Nicholas' Bell Tower.  We had planned for Aaron to go up there but we took too long in the church and our tram tickets were about to expire.  Oh well, for next time!
A view of the Charles Bridge Towers along Mostecká

The 22 and 23 lines ran along our hotel, the Square and up the hill to the Castle, as well as a route to go over the Vltava river into Old Town and New Town.
Lunch time!  Jan our concierge recommended we go to a brewery called U Medvídků.  It's right up Aaron's alley!
Having another Czech dark beer
A little tidbit: The norm in Prague is waiters will bring out things you might not have ordered and will charge you extra if you end up eating it or not say anything about it, even if you don't eat it!  Americans are so used to having soups, salads or breads brought out automatically that we could be taken advantage of if we are not careful.  I had to tell the waiter we didn't want the bread basket to assure we were not charged extra for it just sitting on our table.
Since we just ate a large buffet breakfast and we didn't want to walk out of the way later to visit this beer garden, we decided to split a salad and a main dish.  We had a caesar salad (cesar variace 4 druhů čerstvých trhaných salátů, hoblinky z parmazánu a krutony, dresing) and pork steak with a homemade beer gravy and fries (vepřový řízek pana sládka s domácí omáčkou z piva, slainy a smažené cibulky, bramborové hranokly).
   
The history of the restaurant " U medvídků" dates back to 1466. Translated as "At the little bears", it has a unique tap.
 
 
 
It was a true Czech beer garden experience!  Aaron even found a bike jersey in Czech that he purchased! We walked on to Old Town.
We passed the Evangelical Church Martin in the Wall on the way.
My pilgrimage to the Estates Theatre is complete!  This historic 18th century building is where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart premiered Don Giovanni.  It might look tiny but it's actually a block long.
 
Walking toward the Gothic Powder Tower.  It is one of the city's original gates built in the 11th century.
Aaron making fun of me since I've been touching walls, gates, statues throughout the trip.  Hey it's historical!  Everything in Hawaii, and the U.S. for that matter is all so young compared to buildings in Prague.
Around the corner from the Tower is the Municipal House (Obecní dům). From 1383-1485 the King of Bohemia lived at this location. The Royal Palace was demolished in the early 20th century and the current building opened in 1912.  It has the Smetana Hall concert venue, shops and restaurants and no government functioning offices.    It was very busy with tourists today.
On our way back to the Square, we stumbled upon the 13th century Presbytery Church of St. James (Kostel Sv. Jakuba). The entrance bears three large scale bas-reliefs with scenes of celestial clouds and cherubs.  Some suspect that the church patron, Count Vratislav was buried here in his tomb alive since they found his corpse in a sitting position.
An even more eerie tidbit -- a thief's arm is hanging somewhere in the church!  The monks had to cut it off when the statue of Mary grabbed him during the burglary. (I found out the decayed arm was above our heads at the entrance!) What was really impressive though was the organ that was practicing.  I felt like the Phantom of the Opera was up there!  The music sent chills through me! 
    
The back view if the Church of Our Lady Before Týn (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem) built in the 14th century in the Gothic style.
Another view of the Square with the Church of St. Nicholas in the center.  Don't confuse this church with the one in Malá Strana.  This Czechoslovak Hussite church was built in 1731 in a Baroque style by K. I. Dientzenhofer.
The National Gallery, the House of the Stone Bell Art Gallery (exhibit of Tim Burton), the Galley of Art Prague (exhibit of Dali and Warhol), shops and cafes in the foreground.
       
I found the Four Seasons Prague on my walk back to the hotel.  Not very impressive compared to all the architectual buildings around it but the location is right on the Vltava River.
I also passed the Clementinim (Klementinum) on my walk.  A Dominican monastery was founded in the medieval period, which was transformed in 1556 to a Jesuit college.  It is now a historic complex of buildings that houses the National, University and Technical libraries.  My kind of place!

2014 PRAGUE: Evening 4 Noi

June 28

We had such a busy day and it was super hot too.  After a much needed nap Aaron and I walked up the street in search of dinner.  We found the Hunger Wall (Hladová zeď) memorial on the way.
 
 We got Thai food from Noi Restaurant on Újezd.
We enjoyed Thai Singha beer and homemade peach-mint iced tea.
 
We were so hungry we shared a Mix of starters - chicken stick, spring roll, shrimp cake, peanut and sweet-chilli sauce.  Ono!
I had Phad Thai Kai - mild and Aaron had Phad Khee Mao Kai - Thai spice.  It smells so good! And it tastes heavenly!
We are going to sleep early.  We have another long day planned tomorrow.  Dobrou noc!

2014 PRAGUE: Day 5 New Town and Wenceslas Square

June 29

New Town (Nové Město) and Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí)
We crossed a new bridge today, the Jiraskova Bridge (Jiráskův most) that takes us into New Town.  It is located south of the Legion Bridge (Most legií) and is less crowded than the two we've been using.
The Dancing House or Fred and Ginger (Tančící dům) is on the New Town side.
The Dancing House (Tančící dům) was built in 1997 and designed by Frank Gehry.  All my BFFs with Tiffany & Co. jewelry should know this name as he designs one of their jewelry lines.  I actually own a couple of his pieces.  Oh and he also designed Guggenheim Museum Bilbao in Spain, Walt Disney Concert Hall in LA and 8 Spruce Street in NYC.
There is so much more beautiful buildings to take in along the Vltava River.
Lunch at Bar U Mateje on Křemencova
Aaron had Pilsner goulash (Plzeňský hovězí guláš, houskový knedlík) and I just wanted a burger and fries (hovězího masa, salát, rajče, americký dresink, sýr, restovaná cibulka – se salátem coleslaw a hranolky).  My fries and the gravy -- ono!
Up the street we discovered the tourist-famous U Fleků Brewery and Restaurant.
We finally wondered into Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí) and saw the Hotel Evropa in its Art Nouveau style.
A look down the boulevard toward the National Museum (Národní muzeum) in it's grand Neoclassic style.

St. Wenceslas Monument for the patron saint of Bohemia.
The main building of the National Museum (Národní muzeum) has been closed for renovations for several years now but tourists can visit all the other museum locations throughout the city.
 
A less visited spot lies a eerie memorial to Czech students protesting the invasion of their country by setting themselves on fire.
The Prague State Opera (Státní opera) opened in 1888 to house minority German-speaking performances.  Its auditorium is in a Neo-Rococo style.
The National Museum New Building (Navštivte nás) in between the State Opera House and the main building.
Walking down the boulevard we discovered Church of our Lady of the Snows (Panna Maria Sněžná - kostel) and the Franciscan Gardens (Františkánské zahrady).  This Roman Catholic church built between 1347-1603 in a Gothic style.
Lisa in art installation by Josef Klimeš called Wild Nymphs.  The Franciscan Gardens (Františkánské zahrady) date back to the 14th century.
We are on our way back to our hotel.  This is another view of the National Theatre (Národní divadlo) by the Legion Bridge.  This Prague treasure was constructed between 1844-1881 in a Neo-Renaissance style.